July 12, 2007

Gozan nashi ni


Gozan literally means "five mountains" and it's a term that's used to describe the five schools of zen that migrated from China to Japan. There is a special exhibit at the National Museum in Tokyo by the same name, showing the artwork and calligraphy associated primarily with the zen schools in Kyoto. Alas, it opens on July 31, the day after my flight back to the US.

Yesterday was my second day in the Ueno area with a number of museums. The first day I overslept when napping because I'm still somewhat jet-lagged, and I wound up getting there after many were closing. Yesterday I went earlier in the day but found I wouldn't be able to see the exhibit I was most intererested in.

That said, I also saw a collection of ukiyo-e art of Japanese women collected at New Otani, the hotel where I'm staying. Ukiyo-e was created during the Edo era (1603-1867) and it's name literally means "pictures of the floating world." The above is by Kudo Shunman and titled "two beauties walking in the snow with an umbrella." The image here doesn't do justice to the original, which I loved.

Before venturing out yesterday, I again stopped by the local McDonald's for breakfast. Okay, so it's not traditional Japanese, but it's an easier way to ease into the day with something familiar and satisfying.

That said, I still had to learn a phrase in Japanese to get what I wanted (after a mistake the first go round). The phrase? "Two egg mcmuffins niku nashi ni" ... or "... meat without." I have to admit it felt so cliche to be walking into McDonald's the first morning, but I've managed to overcome that mild sense of embarrassment for a comfortable way to start the day.

July 10, 2007

RDU - DFW - Narita - Tokyo Station - Akasaka-Mitsuke

Planes, trains, and subways ... and now I'm in my hotel. It took 2.5 + 13 hours in flight to get here, and another 2:35 to get from Narita to my hotel via the Narita Express train and the Marunouchi line of Tokyo's subway system.

Walking around Tokyo tonight I kept thinking to myself, "why don't more people live here?" It just seems that good. Of course, I understand the irony of that statement.

I've had very little sleep the last few days though ... time to hit the hay. Tomorrow will have to take care of itself.

July 9, 2007

Dallas-Fort Worth

I'm at the airport in Dallas-Fort Worth waiting on my connecting flight to Tokyo. I remember how unusual it felt last time that "things" here were so familiar after spending a month in Asia. This time? The familiarity is familiar ... looking forward to the unfamiliar.

July 6, 2007

Kugami again


Why shouldn't I go home
To my mountain hut
Treading along the cedar path
Growing thick on Mt. Kugami?

-Ryokan

At 6 am this Monday I'll again board a plane for Japan and stay there for three weeks. I'm flying into and out of Narita airport near Tokyo. Beyond that not much is clear. Public transportation is so convenient that not much needs to be arranged in advance. Airports, train stations, subways, buses, taxis ... they're all interconnected and uniform.

In deciding whether to travel again this year, I played over and over again in my mind the experience of out-of-the-way places. When I think of Bunsui, the little town at the foot of Kugami yama, I have a warm feeling that words cannot capture. The thought of returning was irresistible.

At this time last year my concern was what it would be like to travel alone for an extended period. I had never done it. I cannot forget descending Kugami and walking for miles along the rice fields toward Bunsui ... so alone, and yet without the piercing loneliness I sometimes felt.

What will I find this year? Where will I go? Perhaps I should see temples in the Japanese Alps that I missed last time. My only known destination is Bunsui ... will it feel the same, or different? Will the rice shop owner greet me again and offer ocha?

June 27, 2007

Hearing a crow ...


Hearing a crow with no mouth
cry in the deep darkness of night,
I feel a longing for
my father before he was born.

-Ikkyu

June 3, 2007

Old horse

baby wrens hopping
along the deck railing
days pushed along with
poetry and tea
what a useless old horse I've become

May 15, 2007

Sounds so simple

Thoughts paralyze me
Putting one foot in front of the other
Sounds so simple