In Tokyo, paper napkins in restaurants have a glossy finish, public restrooms have no towels, trash receptacles are uncommon, drinks sometimes come in aluminum cans with twist-off tops, eye contact is made only infrequently, guys wear clothing in shades of either gray or blue, girls wear heels and feminine clothing, and banks have attendants waiting to assist you as you walk in the door (and places to sit until your number is called).
Also, in Tokyo the Chinese Yuan appears to be in a separate category from other currencies. I tried changing my excess Yuan into Japanese Yen at the airport, the hotel, and a couple of banks in downtown Tokyo before finally finding one that would do so. The odd part was that I showed my Yuan at several banks (to make sure they understood what I wanted) and they had me fill out a form (as usual) only to tell me afterward that they could't convert Yuan (strange). Anyway, Mitsubishi Bank in downtown Tokyo was great (though I kept thinking that at some point my transaction would be terminated before completion ... but not so).
As for the lack of towels in restrooms (not only in Tokyo but also in Shanghai and Hong Kong), everyone seems to have a handy little towel or handkerchief tucked away.
And yeah, I have to admit I've noticed what young women wear ... they're much more femininely dressed in Tokyo than in the US, and even more so in Shanghai and Hong Kong. In fact, in Shanghai I kept thinking: the weather is so uncomfortable, it's hot as hell outside, everyone's walking or riding bikes over large distances, and yet girls are all in heels and often in skirts. Riding bikes in high heels?
As for eye contact, it "feels" like the Japanese are focused on getting things done and that they have sort of a "minding their own business" attitude. But if you stop and ask someone for help, they will go out of their way and try even if they understand little English.
In just a few days in Tokyo it's easy to see where the "discipline" part of Zen Buddhism entered the picture, and how it flourished in Japan. It may or may not be thriving in Japan now, but you get the sense that it's still "around" and that people still speak that language. In my room are two books: the New Testament and the Teaching of Buddha.
Tokyo feels so different from Shanghai. I mean, the way people interact among themselves and with me are totally different, and I'm not sure if words alone can capture the feeling of being in either place. There seem to be fewer customs in the way people interact in Shanghai, and people there are maybe easier to read. Whereas Chinese will readily engage in a conversation with a stranger (me), Japanese seem to be more cautious about it.
Also unlike in China, no one here has approached me to start a conversation ... this happened frequently in both Hong Kong and Shanghai. It's the "minding your own business" thing I suppose ... and like I said, very little eye contact.
Oh, and driving here is quite orderly and disciplined, as you might guess. Horn-honking is rare, and taxis won't run over you.
Tomorrow I'm catching an 8:50 am bullet train to Nagoya, the Shinkansen Nozomi that apparently runs at speeds of up to 186 mph. It will take an hour and 43 minutes to get there. That's assuming I can make it to Tokyo Station via the subway during rush hour.
Just to make sure I knew what I was doing, I took the subway today to Tokyo Station as sort of a dress rehearsal and also to see a different part of Tokyo. There are great little side streets in some areas, and the Japanese aesthetic (Edo style architecture, banners with Kanji, etc.) can be found in many little shops and restaurants. And this area is where I found Mitsubishi Bank ... and a Starbucks for a light snack and a cool drink. There are many here, though perhaps less frequently seen than in Hong Kong.
I'm back at the hotel now with few plans other than to prepare a little for meetings tomorrow in Nagoya ... the Japanese professor from there has a full agenda for me for the next couple of days. I think I should rest up.
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